
Ajrakh
Ajrakh, from the arabic word for blue (azraq), is a textile known for its hand-blocked geometric patterns and vibrant red and indigo dyes. The origins can be traced back to Hindu and Muslim communities that lived in present-day Pakistan along the Indus River. The rectangular cloth was primarily worn by males from the Maldhari community, a pastoral tribe in Gujarat, India. The cloth was worn as a turban, shawl, or a sarong-style wrap known as a lungi. Sometimes, it was worn by women as shawls (dupatta) or wraps (odhni).
Famously, ajrakh is often printed double-sided, with designs on both sides matched up perfectly. Carving wooden stamps and hand-blocking is done manually, requiring the artisans to work precisely and mathematically. Today, the production of ajrakh is regionally specific, limited to Kutch in Gujarat and Barmer in Rajasthan, India, as well as Sindh, Pakistan.
Traditionally, ajrakh is produced using a series of resist and mordant dyeing techniques, which are applied to fine cotton fabric. The production process is time-consuming and includes at least 15 steps. Oftentimes, the dyeing process is repeated to achieve bolder colors. Traditional ajrakh layouts are rectangular, with center designs framed by intricate borders. Common motifs include dates, figs, almonds, grains, peacocks, and patterns influenced by Islamic architecture. As ajrakh was primarily worn by Muslims, no images of humans or animals are used.
These days, there is a distinction between “true ajrakh,” which refers to the traditional printing and dyeing process, and “new ajrakh.” New ajrakh emerged recently as the textile market became increasingly industrialized. True ajrakh is more expensive and labor-intensive, making it difficult for artisans to compete in the modern textile market. And while most traditional ajrakh practices are still alive, many artisans are under pressure to sacrifice quality for mass production. Today, it's common to replace the traditional indigos, madder and cotton with synthetic dyes and fabric, and trade hand-blocks for screen-printing. Many artisans have stopped producing ajrakh for the Maldhari people, and now are more focused on catering to a wider, more global audience. Globalization has also resulted in new variations of ajrakh, including new motifs and new uses for the fabric, such as saris, bed linen and yardage for various other uses.