Famously light-weight and fine, jamdani muslin is known for its delicate, yet intricate brocade designs. Jamdani muslin has origins in Dhaka, Bangladesh, a location acclaimed for its cotton crops known to produce soft fibers. The weavers, traditionally men, were from Muslim communities who lived in cities along the banks of the Shitalakhya River. No one knows exactly when the weaving style was born, but the fabric became known as jamdani muslin during the Mughal era, in the late 16th century and early 17th century. In terms of motifs, flower-inspired designs – such as roses, jasmine or chrysanthemums – are common and popular. Geometric designs such as stripes, spots, or stars are also used, as are images of animals or nature. 

When following traditional practices, jamdani muslin is always hand-woven from natural cotton fibers. Weavers first hand-spin cotton fibers into yarn, and later use the yarn to weave the muslin. It is common for two weavers to work on one jamdani piece simultaneously; one is the ustad –  the master weaver – and the other is the shagred, or the apprentice. The weavers use a bamboo loom, called a tant, as well as a bamboo pen, called a kandur, to thread the fibers through each other. 

Notably, jamdani muslin is brocaded, meaning the decorative designs are woven into the fabric. This is not to be confused with embroidery, which involves stitching designs into fabric after it’s been woven. The floral or geometric designs can cover the entire cloth, or be scattered across the fabric.

Jamdani muslin was long considered one of the finest cotton textiles, and was a symbol of elitism. However, the industry in Bengal took a turn for the worse after it fell under British colonial rule. The East India Company banned many textiles imported from India, and coerced Indian weaving industries to adapt industrial machinery, endangering traditional practices in the process. Weavers in Bengal were forced to abandon cotton for more profitable silks, and worked under middlemen that often enforced exploitation and inhumane working conditions. There are anecdotal accounts of the British cutting off the thumbs or tongues of weavers who attempted to continue weaving muslin, prohibiting them from practicing or passing down the tradition. The fall of the Mughal empire also contributed to the decline, leaving the industry without some of their most influential consumers. With no market, the weavers were forced to find other work as means of survival. Most styles of muslin were lost during Britain’s colonial rule in India – Jamdani muslin was one of the only muslins to survive. 

Today, there is an organized effort to revive the jamdani styles native to Dhaka, and ensure the weavers directly profit off their labor. After India gained independence in 1857, weavers in West Bengal had access to local cotton again. Over the years, with help from the government to fund proper equipment and training, the hand-woven muslin industry was rebuilt. The revival efforts have taken care in rebuilding an industry that is sustainable, financially competitive, and does not require weavers from rural areas to travel to cities. Now, weavers in West Bengal are able to earn living wages while keeping an important tradition alive. Jamdani textiles are still considered luxurious and are used for ceremonial events, such as weddings.